San Giovanni Festival in Florence is your chance to discover an authentic city far beyond the usual clichés. If you think Florence is only about the Renaissance, quiet museums, and endless lines for the David, you’ve clearly never been here on June 24th.
While the rest of the world celebrates the start of summer, Florence transforms. The feast of St. John the Baptist, the city’s patron saint, is not just a religious holiday: it’s the day when the true, proud, and decidedly loud soul of the Florentines comes out to play.
Calcio Storico Fiorentino: Don’t Just Call It “Sport”
The highlight of the day is the final of Calcio Storico Fiorentino in Piazza Santa Croce. Imagine 54 men (27 per side) dressed in 16th-century costumes facing off in a gritty mix of soccer, rugby, and Greco-Roman wrestling.
- The Teams: The four historic quarters: Bianchi (whites – Santo Spirito), Azzurri (light blues – Santa Croce), Rossi (reds – Santa Maria Novella), and Verdi (greens – San Giovanni).
- The Prize: No gold trophies or million-dollar contracts here. They play for honor and… a Chianina cow (though today it’s mostly symbolic).
- The Vibe: Sand in the piazza, screaming fans, and a tension you can cut with a knife. It’s a raw, fascinating, and absolutely unique spectacle.
Local Tip: Scoring tickets for the final is an Indiana Jones-level mission. They are sold on Ticketone but usually sell out within hours. If you can’t get into the square, join the locals in the city center bars to watch the live broadcast—the cheering is just as intense!
Alternatively, consider attending the semifinals on June 13th and 14th. The matchups are drawn on Easter Sunday and the games are just as adrenaline-fueled and fierce.
The Parade of the Florentine Republic
For many, the most captivating part of the San Giovanni celebrations is the Historical Parade of the Florentine Republic. Over 500 participants march through the city center in Renaissance costumes, accompanied by flag-throwers (sbandieratori) and musicians.
The parade usually starts at 3:00 PM from Piazza Santa Maria Novella, winding through the heart of the city via Via Tornabuoni, Piazza della Repubblica, and Piazza della Signoria, before arriving at Piazza Santa Croce. It then loops back through the center, ending at Piazza di Parte Guelfa.
The “Fochi”: Fireworks Over the Arno
After the adrenaline of the Calcio Storico, the city takes a breath before the grand finale. Around 10:00 PM, all eyes turn toward Piazzale Michelangelo. Locals affectionately call them the “Fochi”—a spectacular fireworks display that lights up the world’s most famous monuments for nearly an hour.
Where to get the best view?
- The Lungarni: Lungarno della Zecca and Lungarno delle Grazie are the top spots (and very crowded, so get there early!).
- Ponte Santa Trinita: For a perfect view of the Ponte Vecchio shimmering in the reflections of the fireworks.
- From the Hills: If you want to avoid the crowds, find a spot on a stone wall toward Fiesole or Settignano.
How to Survive (and Enjoy) the San giovanni Festival in Florence
Florence during San Giovanni is breathtaking, but it can be chaotic. With road closures for the parade and thousands of people scouting for the perfect firework spot, you need a strategy.
If you want to explore the city like a pro, without getting lost in the alleys or falling for tourist traps, check out my do-it-yourself FLORENCE Guide. It’s designed for those who want to discover the authentic side of the city at their own pace, saving time and stress.
Detailed Official Schedule (June 24th)
To make sure you don’t miss a beat, here is the traditional schedule for Wednesday, June 24th:
- 8:30 AM – Parade of Offerings: Starts from Via Folco Portinari, reaching the Duomo to join the Historical Parade.
- 9:00 AM – Piazza della Signoria: Performance by the Bandierai degli Uffizi and the presentation of the Cross of San Giovanni to the Mayor.
- 10:30 AM – Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore): Solemn Mass in honor of the Patron Saint.
- 3:00 PM – Piazza Santa Maria Novella: Departure of the Historical Parade through the city center.
- 5:00 PM – Piazza Santa Croce: Arrival of the Parade and flag-throwing performance.
- 5:00 PM – Lungarno Anna Maria de’ Medici: Palio Remiero, a traditional rowing regatta between the city’s four districts.
- 6:00 PM – Piazza Santa Croce: The Final of Calcio Storico Fiorentino (Duration: 50 minutes).
- 10:00 PM – Piazzale Michelangelo: Fireworks (Fochi) accompanied by a musical intro.
The “Notturna di San Giovanni” Night Run
If you are in town the weekend before, don’t miss the 86th Conad Notturna di San Giovanni. Established in 1938, this night run is a true Florentine tradition.
Don’t worry if you aren’t a pro athlete! Alongside the competitive 10km race, there is a 4km “fun run/walk” (percorso ludico-motorio). It’s a magical way to admire the beauty of the historic center in the cool evening air. The start and finish lines are in Piazza San Giovanni.
See You in Florence!
San Giovanni is the day Florence reminds everyone that it was once a world capital and still has a powerful, beating heart. Let yourself be carried away by the rhythm of the drums and the colors of the banners.
Planning your trip? Check out my tips on where to stay and what to do in Florence, or consult my complete guide to Florence, Lucca, Pisa, and Siena.
So, shall we meet on the Lungarno?
